Giorgio Armani’s creations hit the runway at the Milan Fashion Week yesterday. The designer displayed great self-confidence in his unflinching decision to close the Milan event , despite the foreign press having inexplicably already left, as expected.
Armani thus proved once again to be a sharp observer of the present time, albeit reinterpreted in his own way.
The result is sometimes aesthetically distant and outside a specific time, but this is a sign of quality and of a personal creative streak.
In any case, it is the intention and the attention that count: the determination to not back away from the world and to keep a lively outlook on fashion even at 80 and after a forty-year career.
Thus, in a fashion season marked by great chaos and rampant confusion - with the absurd presence of signs and styles that social media trend setter Anna Dello Russo in one of her hilarious Instagram Stories has called a “Noah’s Ark” trend - even Armani has embraced variety.
This season, the fashion designer has issued no public statement after the show, except for a brief press release. It is an unexpected but very up-to-date message: multiplicity as “a form of contemporary consistency.”
Armani, the most staunch and enduring champion of soft severity, the designer of liquid lines, of the balance of masculine and feminine, of intangible exoticism, accepts multiplication and the unexpected.
No need to worry: he does not give up on consistency. However, he cuts it up, refracts and multiplies it - probably too much.
The collection he presents on the runway is thus a whirl of fragments, colors, materials and lines that blend into pictorial compositions while maintaining their distinctive character.
It includes everything that makes Armani Armani: the blazers with the curved and perfect shoulders, revised in precious jacquard; the nice dialogue between the masculine and feminine; the sparkling and precious evening wear and references to other styles of clothing; the poetic taste of decorum and the taste for vertical lines. The sense of color, however, is new and surprising.
One tends to associate Armani, mistakenly, to a neutral palette of grays and beiges. This time around, instead, it is a refraction of shades adorned with precious gems: purple, green, red, orange, cut with black that continues to reassure. The colorist Armani convinces: the combinations are controlled and the carnival effect is readily avoided. Certainly, translating the color of the catwalk into real life is a difficult task, but Armani makes it easy.
One element stands out: the abundance of bags, each one different based on the style and size matched with each look. Accessories are certainly an important item for the Armani business. They are also a great way to add a dash of color to the sober wardrobes of his clients.
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